All About Coffee
William H. Ukers
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FOREWORD
Some introductory remarks on the lure of coffee, its place in a rational dietary, its universal psychological appeal, its use and abuse
Civilization in its onward march has produced only three important non-alcoholic beverages - the extract of the tea plant, the extract of the cocoa bean, and the extract of the coffee bean........
Good coffee, carefully roasted and properly brewed, produces a natural beverage that, for tonic effect, can not be surpassed, even by its rivals, tea and cocoa. Here is a drink that ninety-seven percent of individuals find harmless and wholesome, and without which life would be drab indeed - a pure, safe, and helpful stimulant compounded in nature's own laboratory, and one of the chief joys of life!
CONTENTS
encomiums and descriptive phrases applied to the plant, the berry, and the beverage Page XXVII
THE EVOLUTION OF A CUP OF COFFEE
Showing the various steps through which the bean passes from plantation to cup Page XXIX
CHAPTER I
Dealling with the etymology of Coffee
Origin and translation of the word from the Arabian into various languages - Views of many writers Page 1
CHAPTER II
History of Coffee Propagation
A brief account of the cultivation of the coffee plant in the Old World, and of its introduction into the New - A romantic coffee adventure Page 5
CHAPTER III
early History of Coffee Drinking
Coffee in the Near east in the early centuries - Stories of its origin - Discovery by physicians and adoption by the Church - Its spread through Arabia, Persia, and Turkey - Persecutions and Intolerances - early coffee manners and customs Page 11
CHAPTER IV
Introduction of Coffee into Western europe
When the three great temperance beverages, cocoa, tea, and coffee, came to europe - Coffee first mentioned by Rauwolf in 1582 - early days of coffee in Italy - How Pope Clement VIII baptized it and made it a truly Christian beverage - The first european coffee house, in Venice, 1645 - The famous Cafe Florian - Other celebrated Venetian coffee houses of the eighteenth century - The romantic story of Pedrocchi, the poor lemonade-vender, who built the most beautiful coffee house in the world Page 25
CHAPTER V
The Beginnings of Coffee in France
What French travelers did for coffee - the introduction of coffee by P. de la Roque into Marseilles in 1644 - The first commercial importation of coffee from egypt - The first French coffee house - Failure of the attempt by physicians of Marseilles to discredit coffee - Soliman Aga introduces coffee into Paris - Cabarets à Cafe - Celebrated works on coffee by French writers Page 31
CHAPTER VI
The Introduction of Coffee into england
The first printed reference to coffee in english - early mention of coffee by noted english travelers and writers - The Lacedæmonian "black broth" controversy - How Conopios introduced coffee drinking at Oxford - The first english coffee house in Oxford - Two english botanists on coffee Page 35
CHAPTER VII
The Introduction of Coffee into Holland
How the enterprising Dutch traders captured the first world's market for coffee - Activities of the Netherlands east India Company - The first coffee house at the Hague - The first public auction at Amsterdam in 1711, when Java coffee brought forty-seven cents a pound, green Page 43
CHAPTER VIII
The Introduction of Coffee into Germany
The contributions made by German travelers and writers to the literature of the early history of coffee - The first coffee house in Hamburg opened by an english merchant - Famous coffee houses of old Berlin - The first coffee periodical and the first kaffee-klatsch - Frederick the Great's coffee roasting monopoly - Coffee persecutions - "Coffee-smellers" - The first coffee king Page 45
CHAPTER IX
Telling How Coffee Came to Vienna
The romantic adventure of Franz George Kolschitzky, who carried "a message to Garcia" through the enemy's lines and won for himself the honor of being the first to teach the Viennese the art of making coffee, to say nothing of falling heir to the supplies of the green beans left behind by the Turks; also the gift of a house from a grateful municipality, and a statue after death - Affectionate regard in which "Brother-heart" Kolschitzky is held as the patron saint of the Vienna Kaffee-sieder - Life in the early Vienna cafe's Page 49
CHAPTER X
The Coffee Houses of Old London
One of the most picturesque CHAPTERs in the history of coffee - The first coffee house in London - The first coffee handbill, and the first newspaper advertisement for coffee - Strange coffee mixtures - Fantastic coffee claims - Coffee prices and coffee licenses - Coffee club of the Rota - early coffee-house manners and customs - Coffee-house keepers' tokens - Opposition to the coffee house - "Penny universities" - Weird coffee substitutes - The proposed coffee-house newspaper monopoly - evolution of the club - Decline and fall of the coffee house - Pen pictures of coffee-house life - Famous coffee houses of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries - Some Old World pleasure gardens - Locating the notable coffee houses Page 53
CHAPTER XI
History of the early Parisian Coffee Houses
The introduction of coffee into Paris by Thevenot in 1657 - How Soliman Aga established the custom of coffee drinking at the court of Louis XIV - Opening of the first coffee houses - How the French adaptation of the Oriental coffee house first appeared in the real French cafe of François Procope - Important part played by the coffee houses in the development of French literature and the stage - Their association with the Revolution and the founding of the Republic - Quaint customs and patrons - Historic Parisian cafe's Page 91
CHAPTER XII
Introduction of Coffee into North America
Captain John Smith, founder of the Colony of Virginia, is the first to bring to North America a knowledge of coffee in 1607 - The coffee grinder on the Mayflower - Coffee drinking in 1668 - William Penn's coffee purchase in 1683 - Coffee in colonial New england - The psychology of the Boston "tea party," and why the United States became a nation of coffee drinkers instead of tea drinkers, like england - The first coffee license to Dorothy Jones in 1670 - The first coffee house in New england - Notable coffee houses of old Boston - A skyscraper coffee-house Page 105
CHAPTER XIII
History of Coffee in Old New York
The burghers of New Amsterdam begin to substitute coffee for "must," or beer, for breakfast in 1668 - William Penn makes his first purchase of coffee in the green bean from New York merchants in 1683 - The King's Arms, the first coffee house - The historic Merchants, sometimes called the "Birthplace of our Union" - The coffee house as a civic forum - The exchange, Whitehall, Burns, Tontine, and other celebrated coffee houses - The Vauxhall and Ranelagh pleasure gardens Page 115
CHAPTER XIV
Coffee Houses of Old Philadelphia
Ye Coffee House, Philadelphia's first coffee house, opened about 1700 - The two London coffee houses - The City tavern, or Merchants coffee house - How these, and other celebrated resorts, dominated the social, political, and business life of the Quaker City in the eighteenth century Page 125
CHAPTER XV
The Botany of the Coffee Plant
Its complete classification by class, sub-class, order, family, genus, and species - How the Coffea arabica grows, flowers, and bears - Other species and hybrids described - Natural caffein-free coffee - Fungoid diseases of coffee Page 131
CHAPTER XVI
The Microscopy of the Coffee Fruit
How the beans may be examined under the microscope, and what is revealed - Structure of the berry, the green, and the roasted beans - The coffee-leaf disease under the microscope - Value of microscopic analysis in detecting adulteration Page 149
CHAPTER XVII
The Chemistry of the Coffee Bean
By Charles W. Trigg.
Chemistry of the preparation and treatment of the green bean - Artificial aging - Renovating damaged coffees - extracts - "Caffetannic acid" - Caffein, caffein-free coffee - Caffeol - Fats and oils - Carbohydrates - Roasting - Scientific aspects of grinding and packaging - The coffee brew - Soluble coffee - Adulterants and substitutes - Official methods of analysis Page 155
CHAPTER XVIII
Pharmacology of the Coffee Drink
By Charles W. Trigg
General physiological action - effect on children - effect on longevity - Behavior in the alimentary regime - Place in dietary - Action on bacteria - Use in medicine - Physiological action of "caffetannic acid" - Of caffeol - Of caffein - effect of caffein on mental and motor efficiency - Conclusions Page 174
CHAPTER XIX
The Commercial Coffees of the World
The geographical distribution of the coffees grown in North America, Central America, South America, the West India Islands, Asia, Africa, the Pacific Islands, and the east Indies - A statistical study of the distribution of the principal kinds - A commercial coffee chart of the world's leading growths, with market names and general trade characteristics Page 189
CHAPTER XX
Cultivation of the Coffee Plant
The early days of coffee culture in Abyssinia and Arabia - Coffee cultivation in general - Soil, climate, rainfall, altitude, propagation, preparing the plantation, shade, wind breaks, fertilizing, pruning, catch crops, pests, and diseases - How coffee is grown around the world - Cultivation in all the principal producing countries Page 197
CHAPTER XXI
Preparing Green Coffee for Market
early Arabian methods of preparation - How primitive devices were replaced by modern methods - A chronological story of the development of scientific plantation machinery, and the part played by english and American inventors - The marvelous coffee package, one of the most ingenious in all nature - How coffee is harvested - Picking - Preparation by the dry and the wet methods - Pulping - Fermentation and washing - Drying - Hulling, or peeling, and polishing - Sizing, or grading - Preparation methods of different countries Page 245
CHAPTER XXII
The Production and Consumption of Coffee
A statistical study of world production of coffee by countries - Per capita figures of the leading consuming countries - Coffee-consumption figures compared with tea-consumption figures in the United States and the United Kingdom - Three centuries of coffee trading - Coffee drinking in the United States, past and present - Reviewing the 1921 trade in the United States Page 273
CHAPTER XXIII
How Green Coffees Are Bought and Sold
Buying coffee in the producing countries - Transporting coffee to the consuming markets - Some record coffee cargoes shipped to the United States - Transport over seas - Java coffee "ex-sailing vessels" - Handling coffee at New York, New Orleans, and San Francisco - The coffee exchanges of europe and the United States - Commission men and brokers - Trade and exchange contracts for delivery - Important rulings affecting coffee trading - Some well-known green coffee marks Page 303
CHAPTER XXIV
Green and Roasted Coffee Characteristics
The trade values, bean characteristics, and cup merits of the leading coffees of commerce, with a "Complete Reference Table of the Principal Kinds of Coffee Grown in the World" - Appearance, aroma, and flavor in cup-testing - How experts test coffee - A typical sample-roasting and cup-testing outfit Page 341
CHAPTER XXV
Factory Preparation of Roasted Coffee
Coffee roasting as a business - Wholesale coffee-roasting machinery - Separating, milling, and mixing or blending green coffee, and roasting by coal, coke, gas, and electricity - Facts about coffee roasting - Cost of roasting - Green-coffee shrinkage table - "Dry" and "wet" roasts - On roasting coffee efficiently - A typical coal roaster - Cooling and stoning - Finishing or glazing - Blending roasted coffees - Blends for restaurants - Grinding and packaging - Coffee additions and fillers - Treated coffees, and dry extracts Page 379
CHAPTER XXVI
Wholesale Merchandising of Coffee
How coffees are sold at wholesale - The wholesale salesman's place in merchandising - Some coffee costs analyzed - Handy coffee-selling chart - Terms and credits - About package coffees - Various types of coffee containers - Coffee package labels - Coffee package economies - Practical grocer helps - Coffee sampling - Premium method of sales promotion Page 407
CHAPTER XXVII
Retail Merchandising of Roasted Coffee
How coffees are sold at retail - The place of the grocer, the tea and coffee dealer, the chain store, and the wagon-route distributer in the scheme of distribution - Starting in the retail coffee business - Small roasters for retail dealers - Model coffee departments - Creating a coffee trade - Meeting competition - Splitting nickels - Figuring costs and profits - A credit policy for retailers - Premiums Page 415
CHAPTER XXVIII
A Short History of Coffee Advertising
early coffee advertising - The first coffee advertisement in 1587 was frank propaganda for the legitimate use of coffee - The first printed advertisement in english - The first newspaper advertisement - early advertisements in colonial America - evolution of advertising - Package coffee advertising - Advertising to the trade - Advertising by means of newspapers, magazines, billboards, electric signs, motion pictures, demonstrations, and by samples - Advertising for retailers - Advertising by government propaganda - The Joint Coffee Trade publicity campaign in the United States - Coffee advertising efficiency Page 431
CHAPTER XXIX
The Coffee Trade in the United States
The coffee business started by Dorothy Jones of Boston - Some early sales - Taxes imposed by Congress in war and peace - The first coffee-plantation-machine, coffee-roaster, coffee-grinder, and coffee-pot patents - early trade marks for coffee - Beginnings of the coffee urn, the coffee container, and the soluble-coffee business - Chronological record of the most important events in the history of the trade from the eighteenth century to the twentieth Page 467
CHAPTER XXX
Development of the Green and Roasted Coffee Business in the United States
A brief history of the growth of coffee trading - Notable firms and personalities that have played important parts in green coffee in the principal coffee centers - Green coffee trade organizations - Growth of the wholesale coffee-roasting trade, and names of those who have made history in it - The National Coffee Roasters Association - Statistics of distribution of coffee-roasting establishments in the United States Page 475
CHAPTER XXXI
Some Big Men and Notable Achievements
B.G. Arnold, the first, and Hermann Sielcken, the last of the American "coffee kings" - John Arbuckle, the original package-coffee man - Jabez Burns, the man who revolutionized the roasted-coffee business by his contributions as inventor, manufacturer, and writer - Coffee trade booms and panics - Brazil's first valorization enterprise - War-time government control of coffee - The story of soluble coffee Page 517
CHAPTER XXXII
A History of Coffee in Literature
The romance of coffee, and its influence on the discourse, poetry, history, drama, philosophic writing, and fiction of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries and on the writers of today - Coffee quips and anecdotes Page 541
CHAPTER XXXIII
Coffee in Relation to the Fine Arts
How coffee and coffee drinking have been celebrated in painting, engraving, sculpture, caricature, lithography, and music - epics, rhapsodies, and cantatas in praise of coffee - Beautiful specimens of the art of the potter and the silversmith as shown in the coffee service of various periods in the world's history - Some historical relics Page 587
CHAPTER XXXIV
The evolution of Coffee Apparatus
Showing the development of coffee-roasting, coffee-grinding, coffee-making, and coffee-serving devices from the earliest time to the present day - The original coffee grinder, the first coffee roaster, and the first coffee pot - The original French drip pot, the De Belloy percolator - Count Rumford's improvement - How the commercial coffee roaster was developed - The evolution of filtration devices - The old Carter "pull-out" roaster - Trade customs in New York and St. Louis in the sixties and seventies - The story of the evolution of the Burns roaster - How the gas roaster was developed in France, Great Britain, and the United States Page 615
CHAPTER XXXV
World's Coffee Manners and Customs
How coffee is roasted, prepared, and served in all the leading civilized countries - The Arabian coffee ceremony - The present-day coffee houses of Turkey - Twentieth century improvements in europe and the United States Page 655
CHAPTER XXXVI
Preparation of the Universal Beverage
The evolution of grinding and brewing methods - Coffee was first a food, then a wine, a medicine, a devotional refreshment, a confection, and finally a beverage - Brewing by boiling, infusion, percolation, and filtration - Coffee making in europe in the nineteenth century - early coffee making in the United States - Latest developments in better coffee making - Various aspects of scientific coffee brewing - Advice to coffee lovers on how to buy coffee, and how to make it in perfection Page 693
Giving dates and events of historical interest in legend, travel, literature, cultivation, plantation treatment, trading, and in the preparation and use of coffee from the earliest time to the present Page 725
A list of references gathered from the principal general and scientific libraries - Arranged in alphabetic order of topics Page 738
INDEX
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